Friday, April 20, 2007

Florence Day 1 and 2

4/18/2007 3:55 PM Good afternoon, Luke and I had a very light day today. We woke at 8.30 or so and got the blog squared away so we could insert it when we found an internet point. So I did that. Then we had some crystal light “ juice” and milk. The milk is kinda nice here. It comes only in liter bottles. It also comes in like liter juice boxes. You make a slit on the top and pour. The milk in a box costs like 0.70 € and the milk in a bottle costs like €1.34 .The milk in the box is also shelf stable, as in it doesn’t require refrigeration. Luke also hung the clothes out to dry. We washed them last night. Put them in the drier TWICE, and they still needed to be hung up. So, that Luke did. They are dry now, some were hung in and some hung out. We headed to the San Zachariah vaporetto stop and took #1 bus to the Ca’ Rezzonico. It is an old rich family’s palazzo (palace) that has been turned into a civic museum. We didn’t have to pay admission as it was covered on our museum card. We saw the palace with all it’s painted ceilings, some original furnishings, but mostly paintings. Glad we went, I guess. We didn’t pay for an audio guide, nor have we yet paid for audio guides as Rick Steve’s book gives a guided tour with text. So, Luke was actually my guide. He read aloud as I followed along around the room. We finished up there and caught the #1 again to the Rialto stop where we decided to run around a bit and look around that area some more. Saw more tourist shops of the same genre as I have mentioned previously. We did make a stop back at the piazza that we spent yesterdays lunch at. Also we returned to the cheese shop which we now know is called Casa Della Parmigiano. We bought more asiago cheese, Fontina Toscana and parma crudo. Which is basically a cheap variety of parma ham. We wandered around more- I was in the lead I thought we were heading back to the rialto area but my senses were off and Luke took us back on course. We basically had to turn around and go back the way we came- that’s how off I was. So we did and at 1330 the fish and produce markets were all closing up shop. Luke suggested we go back to our vaporetto stop, but we were looking at the rialto and there happened to be a traghetto stop right there. Traghetto is used when there are no bridges in sight and it would be convenient to cross the rialto if only you had a boat. Basically it is a “taxi” or a “bus” that just crosses the water for it’s route. That’s all it does. It costs €0.50 and is the cheapest and shortest gondola ride you’ll ever have. It is a boat just big enough for 10 people or so to fit on. It is propelled by 2 gondoliers and takes just a few minutes. Can’t beat the price, I told Luke to enjoy this moment. We didn’t even take a picture. So after we crossed we walked a block to our bus stop and found a bread shop and got a few buns as Luke was feeling faint. He was so hungry his stomach had stopped growling. At the bread shop there was a dude selling a half dozen knock off pursed. I said to Luke “here’s my chance!” He thought I was serious. But we kept on walking. Got on our bus which felt like it took forever to get to our off spot at San Zachariah . We walked home and as we walked by the fish specialty restaurants I actually saw a lobster on the ice bed move! Each of these restaurants has a display table showing how good the seafood is there and what they have fresh in today. Luke said he saw one move on the table- I thought he was pulling my leg. He was not. I saw a lobster moving slowly. They keep him alive so they can eat him at the end of the night. Back at our apartment Luke starts to microwave last nights hodge-podge and I suggest a cheese plate. He liked my idea and made one- a good cheese plate. Better than we have ever had in a restaurant. We put mozzarella (which we got at the Punta store before we stopped back at the apartment) and the Fontina, Parmesano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, Asiago, dried cherries, and the traili crackers on the cheese plate.. We took a picture of our dinner and the cheese plate. We ate bread along with and I had a glass of last nights left over open bottle of vino. Now we are up to the current time as I am writing, Luke I fear is asleep on the couch as I am writing outside on the huge patio. I still have 1/3 glass wine here. We have to pack tonight and get the apartment. All ship shape for inspection so we get our €300 cash deposit back. We get on the train to Florence in the AM for another fun filled week of museums. We may even go out to dinner there. There should be more dining options there as the whole place can’t be as touristy as Venezia. Good night!
April 19, 2007 1100We are currently on the train to Florence. It is actually a quiet train, and there are no noises of train tracks etc on the train. The scenery is okay, but you can tell Italy is kind of run down. I see lots of rust and there seems to be old dirt. It doesn’t look that black. You see some vines for grapes here and there, I am sure that people can get some big bucks for family owned bottles of wine. The tickets for the train cost us 60 €, which isn’t so bad. I thought. Last night Lisa and I had some free time to burn before we went back to the apartment to clean, so we decided to go to St. Marks Square. It wasn’t so busy, because most of the vendors were going home. The vendors that were there were the people selling bird seed for the pigeons. So Lisa and I decided to buy some. For crying out loud it was only 1€. When I handed the package to Lisa, birds instantly jumped into her hands to eat. It was hilarious. You didn’t even have to put food in your hand, and they would fly up and see if you had anything good to eat. I took a nice video and some pictures. Then Lisa hands me the bag, and the birds fly onto me. They were nice birds, they weren’t pecking out your eyes for food or anything, so it wasn’t so bad. After the bag of food was gone, you could hold out your hand a little bit more, and the pigeons would fly up and look to see if you had any food. After about two tries, they got smart, and wouldn’t fly up. After the pigeons, we went and just sat around near St. Marks. I like to people watch, but I don’t think as much as Lisa. Oh well. So after about half an hour, we decided to head back. I tried to take a back route to our apartment, but it really didn’t work out that way. So back to apartment we went. Lisa and I did most of the housework last night so we wouldn’t have to rush this morning. We basically did all the dishes, swept the floor and took out the trash. After all that was done, we decided to watch some criminal minds. I sure do like that show, but I am surprised that they can keep up with serial killers as a theme for the show. It is nice to watch, especially without commercials. So Lisa also tried calling her mother last night to pass on directions on how to call us, because Lisa is getting homesick. She needs some sort of family connection. So as we went to bed, I couldn’t sleep, because I was almost positive that the damn phone was going to ring, but it never did. So I slept like crap. We did close our windows though, because we read on the weather report online (when we actually had time in between blogging and checking emails) and it said thunderstorms. So there was a positive for shutting them, our stuff wouldn’t get wet, and we wouldn’t have to listen to all the chatter on the ground floor of people/drunks walking by. It almost gets annoying. So this morning, we had some breakfast, something small, finishing packing the bags, showered and waited for the lady to show up. She was right on time, surprisingly. She coughed up the 300 dollar deposit and off we went. After an hour long boat ride, we arrived at the train station. We ran up to the ticket machine and started punching in our stuff. It was about ten after 11 and Lisa was worried we wouldn’t get to the train in time (it left at 11:23) but I figured, why wait around? So we went outside to the waiting trains, and of course, we start to get instantly confused. I tried looking for Florence on the arrivals/departures screen, but no luck. So I noticed a guy standing around to check tickets, etc, and Lisa and I went and ran towards this guy, and asked him where the hell our train was (it said nowhere on the ticket) and he pointed us to the Roma train, so the end destination is the train you are looking for. Well, nowhere on the ticket does Roma appear, so we are glad that the guy figured out where we were to go. So we ran to the tracks and showed our ticket to some dude, and he says, go to car eight. So we ran into the car, and it was basically empty. But we found our seats, and everything was okay. So now are still running the tracks, and everything is okay. I called Freddrico, and told him we were running late. He was okay with that. I think I will ask him when we get to Florence if he can fix our phone so it speaks in English, because it is almost driving me nuts. So that’s about it. Lisa did get to talk to her mother, which was a good thing. Her mom was almost out of her mind I think to get an answer from our phone. I am hating our phone anyways, because it has a weird menu structure, plus we constantly get texts in Italian. Ugh. Okay, well time to go. Ljf
April 19, 2007 Florence 1900Well, we finally made it to Florence- about 2 hours total. When we got off the train, we went to the side entrance of the train station, and Lisa told me to call the guy that we needed to meet up with. So I called him and told him we were at the train station and just needed to get a taxi. He said no problem, see you in a bit. So Lisa and I went around the corner to get to a taxi (through a taxi stand) and there was a block long line of people and suitcases. Oh my gosh, we were screwed. Halfway through the line Freddrico called and asked where we were. I told him half an hour and we should be there. When we finally got our taxi, the guy driving was like a 20 something year old guy. He zipped through small alleyways and pushed aside tourists to get us to where we needed. He even got out of the car and showed us exactly where we needed to go after he dropped us off, because he couldn’t go right up to the door. Jeez. So we walked down this row of buildings looking for #7, and we finally found it and there were two huge wooden double doors. We walked in and we didn’t know which apartment to ring, but before we could think about it for too long, Freddrico asked Lisa if she was here for the apartment. So he took us upstairs to our apartment and showed us around and turned on the AC. Lisa and I then had a dilemma: which bedroom to choose. One had two twin beds but was bigger, and the other had a double but was smaller. We chose the two twins, because I believe it will be more tolerable in there. So we dinked around for a bit, and then we decided to walk towards a supermarket that Freddrico showed us on the map, and started out our trek. When we walk out of the double doors, we are instantly in the Piazza Della Signoria. In Florence, this is THE main spot to be for everything. We have all these 15-20 foot tall statues by Michelangelo and others all over the place. Well actually, some are replicas. So it was picturesque to see all these statues of history, especially old history. So we walked around the square, and then took off to the supermercato. It is probably three to four long blocks to the supermarket. Easy to get to. We also saw lots of salami shops, trattorias, and small markets. We picked up some good deals (especially the milk, which is UHT (ultra high pasteurized) and doesn’t need to be refrigerated. One liter of milk is like .59€. We bought our fill of things (and we actually bought some MEAT) and went to go pay. Of course, we got up to the checkout and we had no bags. So we had to buy some. Of course, now we have about four to five paid bags. We left the supermarket and took everything back home. Oh, I actually bought some beer. Lisa keeps telling me I don’t need it. But I bought four cans for about 1.50€. We got home and put everything back in the fridge and then went back out to walk around. I finally navigated us to the Ponte Vecchio and across it. There were tons of people selling Coach purses, and designer sunglasses, you wouldn’t even imagine. On the Ponte Vecchio were a lot of stores selling jewelry. On the other side of the bridge was of course more tourist garbage: leather stores, gelato stores (4.00€ for a small cup 4-6 oz)(we didn’t get any though I really wanted some), and other trinket stores. We went to go and look at the bridge from another angle and as I was staring down the Arno River, I noticed something moving. It looked like a napkin moving on the bank of the river. It turned out to be a RAT carrying something back to his home. Lisa couldn’t see, because the ledge was too far up and she couldn’t lean over to see down to the Arno. He was the size of a small Nerf football. After that we left for the apartment. When we got back to Piazza Della Signoria, we stopped and listened to this guy play guitar. He had an amplifier and just a guitar. We gave him a couple of euros. He was actually pretty good. Lisa wanted to pay 15€ for the CD. I told her we’d take it back to the apartment and then return it telling him it didn’t work in our CD player. I’d really copy it to the computer. Then we went back to the apartment. And that is now. Time for supper. My stomach hasn’t been agreeing with me with the food that I am actually making. I think I miss french fries and fried food. I was almost dying to go to McDonalds. So we have some meat now, and some basic pasta sauce. We shall see. So far we are doing pretty well for not eating out. I think the first night in Venice we ate at some Trattorias, but Lisa and I both got smart and stopped eating there. Just a simple sandwich was about 4-5€. What a waste, especially when you have to stretch out your money for 30 days. Okay, time to post this. Thanks for listening. I am not done yet. Lisa writing now. I agree with everything Luke wrote. I want to tell you about the building we are staying in. It is like 4 stories tall. The huge double doors to get in from the outside of the building are like 15 feet tall. They are so heavy you think you’ll open them slow so they don’t swing so hard that you can’t stop them. But they are heavy. You have a key to get into that door. Then walk 10 feet past a row of shiny gold mailboxes. To a 20 foot tall iron gate, it looks like prison bars. You also have to have a key to open that. It too is heavy. Then walk up 2 LONG flights of stairs. We are on the second floor though it feels like 3. When we look out the window we can’t see the ground unless we lean over and look over the edge. The buildings are too close together. I am very happy with this apartment. It is rustic. We have an old long dark wood table with a bench seat on one side and 4 old leather chairs that look like they were bought at an antique store. Surprisingly our fat butts are supported on them. Lets hope that continues. The kitchen has a “hotel fridge” you know a half one that men keep in the basement for beer. We have plenty of silverware, dishes, cookware etc. The only things I’ll gripe about the kitchen is: no forno (oven) and not enough counter space. The apartment is decorated nicely with little old looking pictures and groupings of pictures, old pieces of coordinating furniture. There are 2big old dressers and matching wardrobe in our bedroom with the 2 twin beds (also has TV). The double bed room has a chest high smaller dresser and TV also. The bathroom has a Jacuzzi tub/shower combo and a weird wash machine double antiquey sink and bidet and toilette. That’s about it for notables for the apartment. The keys for the actual apartment are large and weird as was the keys for our place in Venezia. The locks are different too, there is no turning door knob- just a knob that is used to pull the door shut/open. All in all we’re very happy with this apartment. NOW it is time for Luke to post for “free” perhaps in our entry way where there is a Wi- Fi signal. Ljf
Friday, April 20, 2007 3:25 Buona Sera. It is afternoon now and Luke and I have had a fun filled day of museums and churches filled with religious art and wandering around. We woke up with the cars and people talking at 7 am. Please also note that we slept poorly due to the sinking feeling in our beds, the warm room temperature and the crappy loose feather pillows. Luke said he would take a pillow from the couch and use that tonight. OK then, back to this morning. We got up with the sun today at 7 am via the alarm clock. We showered in our Jacuzzi tub and dealt with the shower head holder not holding the head upright. I hollered at Luke to get a screwdriver- he found none, I dealt with it. He returned to cooking a warm breakfast. It is hard for me to say this but we are getting tired of eating bread and cheese for breakfast and lunch for this last week. He threw a spin into this am’s routine; toasted bread, butter, jelly (which we bought last night for €1.50) and the last of the asiago cheese. Luke then fixed the shower head for his shower. We were out the door with wheat thins (we brought with us from walmart) and 2 apples. We forgot lots of stuff this AM: water, the mappa, my sunglasses etc. Oh, well. We tried to get free internet outside our apartment at the sidewalk café by getting a cuppa café. We were unable to as they were not open. It was interesting to see the piazza nearly abandoned and quiet. Off to the Accademia, we made pretty good time walking 15 or 20 min. So we arrived to the Academia, it did not look like it housed David or it was the museum visited by a million people per year. There was hardly a sign above the entrance or anything. So we found it and we were 1 hour early- great. We walked a bit found a tabacchi shop and had espresso for € 0.80 each. I actually had 2. We had to ask for latte’. It was really stiff and like less than an ounce. Oh well. I was sure hopppin after the second. We wandered around and looked at some of the shops that were less touristy and more for everyday Florentians. Our favorite shop of the spree was a video store. We looked at the Italian/European titles and how they were different from the titles of what we know. We saw a whole section of Roberto Benini movies. That was fun.We went in to the Accademia (€ 6.50 plus € 3.00 reservation fee) and Luke got an audio guide for € 8.00 for 1 player and headphones so 1 could listen on the audio guide and the other could listen on headphones. We will get smart and next time bring our own earphones and not pay the price. Luke says the audio guide was not worth it. I tend to agree. Rick didn’t help us here with the written tour because we couldn’t find it in the book. Damn it. We, of course, found it after the fact. We still read it though. The original David was not as breathtaking as I thought it would be. We sure got our time with him. We looked at him seated, standing, from front/back, a digital moveable model etc. One of the other highlights was the stone Prisoners by Michelangelo. It was people emerging from stone like they were trapped. I guess Michelangelo thought that he was working as an extension of God, letting God guide him and doing His will with the stone. There also was LOTS of artwork that would have been behind the altar of medieval churches. The same old stuff repeated, Jesus on the cross with a slit at his ribs and a skull at his feet, Mary with and exposed “water balloon” breast with JC feeding, saints surrounding JC. I was not excited to see these pieces of artwork that had been removed from their environments. They all felt like repeats. I found that I liked the realistic looking ones that had simple lines and were not overfilled with too much subject. We also went to the plaster cast room. It was a large room filled with hundreds of busts. All ages were featured; young and old ladies and men, children and grandparents. There were also plaster test pieces of works I’ve seen before. We left the relatively small Accademia after only about 90 minutes. We then had on the itinerary Rick’s renaissance walk. That took us from the Accademia to the church of San Lorenzo and markets of the same name. The church was where the Medici’s went to church. I liked the grey and white gothic architecture, the huge paintings in the little recesses where people pray (don’t know what they are called) were tucked in so it didn’t upset the flow of the huge church. There were special wood carved pulpits and other carvings done by Donatello. We paid € 2.50 per ticket.Then we went to the Medici Chapel.(€ 4.00 each) This was a “chapel” that the Medici’s made in honor of them selves and their rule. It was really really tall we can’t agree how tall it was. Even if I tell you the right number it wouldn’t seem tall enough. It was under construction and had lots of inlaid marbles, they were puzzle pieced to fit so tight in these gorgeous patterns on the floors and in family crests on the wall. There were Medici statues in the walls- some places were empty where a big statue should have been. I don’t know if this was just not done/filled or if they were under construction. We then went into my favorite part that was in the next room. It was Michelangelo’s Day/Night, Dusk/Dawn. A Medici prince was placed behind each pair of statues. Supposedly Michelangelo knew these 2 Medicis pretty well, can you imagine designing a room for the tombs of your buddies. I really liked the Rick Steves description as read by my lovely husband. We even had some English tourists come up to us (they overheard the description) and asked for clarification about the statues. We were glad to answer and to even speak congenially to another human being (in English). We spent a lot of time in that room despite the 50 Italian sixteen year olds that were so noisy and disrespectful. An Italian curator came in and yelled at the kids. We sat behind the altar area and mused at the statues. The theme was basically that time was the enemy. Rick said that if you are approaching middle age or a possible mid life crisis that one might well avoid the chapel. Michelangelo was also facing the ticking clock. He was doing the tombs of his contemporaries, also it was said the patrons who paid for his work even died while he was working on this monumental project. He did not finish the statue of the Madonna and a big 2 year old JC- the patrons had to go nab it out of his apartment when he left to do the Sistine chapel which was his last project. Can you believe? We then hit the bathroom and checked the gift shop (where the post cards were too much). Then we went to the San Lorenzo market. Saw lots of leather, lots of purses, illegal sunglasses and wallets. The guys carried just enough illegal stuff to carry discretely. They had belts wrapped around their hands and sunglasses strapped to a home made cardboard display board that could be collapsed and carried when the cops show. Oh, and they did show. Luke is certain that they had “lookouts” who hung around the cops where they were stationed and then sent a signal or text message to the guys selling. I looked at some of the designer wallets and they wanted 25 € and then I said no, they asked me how much I wanted to pay. Kept asking, I just had to walk away it is amazing how well they spoke English. I have only seen African Americans sell the contraband. They must all work together or work in some organized scheme to sell the stuff. Interesting. I did buy some wallets from a vendor- not name brand but Italian brand leather wallets. They have smaller wallets that are just for cards which is what I use mostly. So I bought those. I am wondering if I will buy a purse. They have so many nice ones. Luke and I continued to wander on back streets. We ended up toward the green and white marbled Duomo, took some pictures, but that is it. We’ll tour later, perhaps with Mom and Dad. We did achieve much more than our itinerary called for. We wandered more back streets, Luke drank all the water we bought. We enjoyed wheat thin crackers while sitting on a stone “bench” that lined the Emperio Armani store. With in our site there was a Louis Vittion Store, and a something else store. I can’t remember the name. We went eventually back to the apartment in a round about way and had a little lunch of crushed fresh garlic on toast with cheese. Boy was it garlicky it was almost like hot spicy. I still taste it well. While I was taking a break from typing talking to Luke on the couch we heard Vivaldi’s “Spring.” Luke asked me where that was coming from- I said “ The computer…duh” (you see the MP3s were on random playing). I go over to the computer to prove it too him and I was wrong! The violins were coming from the street. So I tell Luke to quick get his shoes on so we could go listen. We did and caught 2 young men playing in the street for change. We listened for 10 min. or so. We also did a fair amount of people watching. Then back up to the apartment to wait for my mother and father to arrive from the aeropuerto. We’ll go get a drink at the café and wait for them and Luke can use the free internet hot spot and post this and yesterday’s blog. Talk to you later. ljf

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Venice Day 4 (last day)

4/18/2007 3:55 PM Good afternoon, Luke and I had a very light day today. We woke at 8.30 or so and got the blog squared away so we could insert it when we found an internet point. So I did that. Then we had some crystal light “ juice” and milk. The milk is kinda nice here. It comes only in liter bottles. It also comes in like liter juice boxes. You make a slit on the top and pour. The milk in a box costs like 0.70 € and the milk in a bottle costs like €1.34 .The milk in the box is also shelf stable, as in it doesn’t require refrigeration. Luke also hung the clothes out to dry. We washed them last night. Put them in the drier TWICE, and they still needed to be hung up. So, that Luke did. They are dry now, some were hung in and some hung out. We headed to the San Zachariah vaporetto stop and took #1 bus to the Ca’ Rezzonico. It is an old rich family’s palazzo (palace) that has been turned into a civic museum. We didn’t have to pay admission as it was covered on our museum card. We saw the palace with all it’s painted ceilings, some original furnishings, but mostly paintings. Glad we went, I guess. We didn’t pay for an audio guide, nor have we yet paid for audio guides as Rick Steve’s book gives a guided tour with text. So, Luke was actually my guide. He read aloud as I followed along around the room. We finished up there and caught the #1 again to the Rialto stop where we decided to run around a bit and look around that area some more. Saw more tourist shops of the same genre as I have mentioned previously. We did make a stop back at the piazza that we spent yesterdays lunch at. Also we returned to the cheese shop which we now know is called Casa Della Parmigiano. We bought more asiago cheese, Fontina Toscana and parma crudo. Which is basically a cheap variety of parma ham. We wandered around more- I was in the lead I thought we were heading back to the rialto area but my senses were off and Luke took us back on course. We basically had to turn around and go back the way we came- that’s how off I was. So we did and at 1330 the fish and produce markets were all closing up shop. Luke suggested we go back to our vaporetto stop, but we were looking at the rialto and there happened to be a traghetto stop right there. Traghetto is used when there are no bridges in sight and it would be convenient to cross the rialto if only you had a boat. Basically it is a “taxi” or a “bus” that just crosses the water for it’s route. That’s all it does. It costs €0.50 and is the cheapest and shortest gondola ride you’ll ever have. It is a boat just big enough for 10 people or so to fit on. It is propelled by 2 gondoliers and takes just a few minutes. Can’t beat the price, I told Luke to enjoy this moment. We didn’t even take a picture. So after we crossed we walked a block to our bus stop and found a bread shop and got a few buns as Luke was feeling faint. He was so hungry his stomach had stopped growling. At the bread shop there was a dude selling a half dozen knock off pursed. I said to Luke “here’s my chance!” He thought I was serious. But we kept on walking. Got on our bus which felt like it took forever to get to our off spot at San Zachariah . We walked home and as we walked by the fish specialty restaurants I actually saw a lobster on the ice bed move! Each of these restaurants has a display table showing how good the seafood is there and what they have fresh in today. Luke said he saw one move on the table- I thought he was pulling my leg. He was not. I saw a lobster moving slowly. They keep him alive so they can eat him at the end of the night. Back at our apartment Luke starts to microwave last nights hodge-podge and I suggest a cheese plate. He liked my idea and made one- a good cheese plate. Better than we have ever had in a restaurant. We put mozzarella (which we got at the Punta store before we stopped back at the apartment) and the Fontina, Parmesano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, Asiago, dried cherries, and the traili crackers on the cheese plate.. We took a picture of our dinner and the cheese plate. We ate bread along with and I had a glass of last nights left over open bottle of vino. Now we are up to the current time as I am writing, Luke I fear is asleep on the couch as I am writing outside on the huge patio. I still have 1/3 glass wine here. We have to pack tonight and get the apartment. All ship shape for inspection so we get our €300 cash deposit back. We get on the train to Florence in the AM for another fun filled week of museums. We may even go out to dinner there. There should be more dining options there as the whole place can’t be as touristy as Venezia. Good night!

Sorry, deleted before last post, don't have time to fix

Um, it is hard to read blogspot in italian. Freaking junk. So I will try to fix later about that old post. I hope everybody got to read it and I accidentally deleted it. Later

Venice Day 3

We forgot some things that we should mention. We saw a motorboat (long and skinny like a gondola) with 8x 12 pieces of sheetrock stacked up like 10 high. You and I would usually see them on the bed of some truck. With all the construction and reconstruction going on there has to be some way to get the stuff from place to place. Oh, and we haven’t seen 1 Menards or Home Depot yet.

Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:15 AM
Good morning. Just got out of the shower. Luke and I slept late. Went to bed late @ 2330. Luke went to the store this am. He said he was going to get some fruit and milk and maybe some cereal. My Lukie boy. Luke had a hard time getting out of the apartment. He couldn’t get the door unlocked---from the inside. Crazy. He just walked in. He got some white wine, a red and 2 one liter bottles of milk. Yumm. That milk tastes good. Our plan is the Rialto Bridge and Friari church, and then to Murano Island. We’ll let you know more when we do. Ljf

5:28 pm
We just got back from our day. We went to the Rialto bridge which was covered in vendors and things.

We took the direct vaporetto bus to get there the #1. It was touristy enough but had some merit. The fish market and produce market was there- and was of course the highlight of our trek down there. Saw some Murano clocks and loads of necklaces, glass ash trays. Got a 2 € shot glass for my friend Bola who interestingly enough does not drink alcohol. We wandered around some more, got off the beaten track saw a lot of meat shops, fish shops and stands near the fish market, stationary and blank book shops that had marble paper. I know I would have bought something at the stationary shop if I would have stopped. We saw purse stores, panty stores, glove stores, kitchen store (with not so much stuff- and it was expensive.) We continued and went in to the fish market area.

It was neat to see, so big and so stinky, lots of fish. I am surprised the fish weren’t moving. We saw black ink squids- they were stained black and grey. There is a special black spaghetti (inked) and some kind of squid.
We happened upon a small cheese store. They had fresh pasta- that is what excited me- but what makes me hungry is not the same for my husband. He ignored my request for pasta and cheese. Then we saw this very crowded very small cheese store. My mouth started watering. I saw some soft asiago and a HUGE wheel of parmesan- oh it looked good. I sent Luke in there to speak Italian and do my bidding. When I stuck my head in to get a peak at what is going on the whole place smelled like REAL macaroni and cheese it was so good. They used a cheese pick (the blade was kind of diamond shaped) to score the edges of the cheese and then split it apart to make it into a nice small wedge from a huge ¼ wheel of cheese. I told Luke what I had learned from Rick Steve’s book say “un etto” which is 100 grams which is also just enough to take for a picnic. He was right! Luke ordered me to go buy an apple from the neighboring fresh veg vendor. When I asked why Luke said cause apples are good with cheese. I think that is crazy but whatev. I did get a pink lady apple. The fruit is really nice here. Some vendors had lemons the size of big grapefruit, they were 2.50 € /kilo. We did not get any. So we walked a block and found this big open square called Campo C. Battisti and there were vacant steps so we parked our bums and sat for lunch as it was like 1 or so.

I was so happy eating this cheese I almost started to cry. I was so happy. Luke and I ate the apple and Asiago and Parmesano reggiano, and the pre packed lunch of bun with butter and percorino romano, dried cherries, another apple from home, it doesn’t sound like much but boy were we full. We enjoyed watching the people walk their dogs and one who was running loose went around the block- we saw him disappear down a street and came back from another direction- obviously he knew his way around. He must have felt contempt because when he came back into the square he took a crap right in the middle of the square. We watched him and he wasn’t even ashamed. Luke hoped that some lady with fancy unreasonable shoes would step in it. Poor dogs in this town, there is no grass or trees to pee/poop on. (I guess the first area of grass I have seen is in our backyard actually) Luke likes to watch the mannerisms of the pigeons. The boy (we assume) pigeon rushes to get in front of the female pigeon (again, we assume) and fluffs up all his feathers and makes his tail feather wide and fluffy. He then twirls around in circles in front of the female pigeon to get her attention. The male pigeon is persistent and keeps up with the female pigeon as she tries to escape and ignore the prancing pigeon. It is funny, we enjoy watching pigeon antics.
Next on our list was to go to the Friari Church. We kind of knew where we were at so we kept walking and all of a sudden there was the Rialto bridge and all the vendors in there glory. We took a good little hike to the Friari church. Luke did an amazing job again at the navigation. We came upon it and it is right in the middle of smushed together buildings like all over here and then there is this HUGE church. HUGE! Monstrous, it was even bigger when you got inside. My mouth just dropped. I suppose I can’t speak for Luke but it was very impressive inside. I can’t imagine worshiping here every week. How intimidating. Can you imagine having a contemporary service in there like with a small band? HA! It was in the gothic style and was very well lit. It was done in red and white stonework. I liked it very much (cause red is my favorite color). There were like six 20 ft tall paintings of J.C. in various parts of his life. Also there were monuments/tombs of various people who were famous or important to the church. On those tombs there were huge statues like 6 feet tall this time like a dozen of them. I couldn’t help but think how much time it took to build this tomb. Titian’s monument–pronounced “tishin” was built 200 years after his death. Was that because that’s how long it took to recognize him as an important artist or because that’s how long it took to accrue all the statue work for it. It was very neat. We wanted to take pictures but with no flash allowed we opted to buy postcards- which if I haven’t mentioned cost only €0.30. And that is consistent all over Venice. Was very happy with that.
Next on our list is to go to Murano Island which is a “glass island” supposedly it was to seclude the glassmakers to keep their techniques secret from the rest of the spying glassmaking world. It was also secluded to that island because Venetians were scared that if their glass fires got out of control, Venice would burn, so local legislature deemed it necessary to have glass making only on that island. We got off a stop that was not close to our destination. Oh well. We hiked a ways past all kinds of tourist glass shops. Glass shop after glass shop. Finally we came upon the museum. We didn’t have to pay admission even though it was only like €5.50 because we had the museum card. We saw some old glass from like the 1st century. It was neat to see. Not a terribly large museum or exhibit or necessarily an exciting one. We spent all that time to get there and it was kind of a “oh what did we go out of our way for that for.” We found the correct vaporetto stop later and decided we might as well spend some more time in Murano and we actually went into a few shops. I bought a necklace for 12 € and earrings for 8€.
Then we saw people with gelato. We haven’t had gelato yet. That was hard for me to believe especially since my husband is an ice cream fanatic normally. You’d think it would be in overdrive when in Italy. So we stopped, I had 1 scoop €0.90, Luke had 2 scoops €1.80. I thought that was a reasonable price. I had strawberry (I think it was more sorbet than the milk based gelato) Luke had chocolate and vanilla. I think the vanilla was best. Luke said this tastes like Culver’s ice cream. I said I thought it tasted better. I guess my husband has high standards when it comes to his favorites: ice cream and hot dogs. We ate at the bistro table outside the shop- this was the first time we have eaten in chairs! You have to be a paying customer to sit in the chairs. We have not been paying customers yet at a dining establishment. We caught the #41 Vaporetto home which was VERY VERY crowded. When I say standing room only- that’s what I mean. I was pressed 1 hip to my husband, my front and back touching other people- the whole time. Needless to say I had my hand in my pocket on my wallet and the other was on my purse. We finally exited the vaporetto at a different spot from usual and took a scenic local walk through the residential area. That was neat. We saw an electronics store- run by mom and pop, a green grocer, a toy store, and Italian neighbors mingling. We also saw “Venetian blinds” we took a picture! Ha! Venetian blinds, I wonder what they call them.


We found our way home with little trouble. Opened all the windows and let the fresh air in. It was so nice out today. Warm in the sun, cool in the shade. No clouds in the sky. A strong breeze if you are in the right spot. Luke keeps saying how lucky we are with the weather. We have had no clouds not too hot not too cold. I would ideally like it maybe 5 degrees cooler. Luke likes it just where it is now. I do agree with him, we have gone on too many spring vacations where we contend with rain and cold temps.
Luke is in the process of making dinner. Tonight is Gnocci essence (they fell apart in the water) and left over pasta from last night revived with a white wine cream sauce. Our seasonal frozen vegetable will be the minestrone mix, fresh bread from the Punta store and frizzante white wine Vino Verduzzo. Luke is telling me to put the computer away for dinner- which I will do gladly. Good night!

Monday, April 16, 2007

Venice day 1 and 2














April 14, 2007
Mike Fenton is coming @ 5 to come pick us up. We fly out @ 9ish. Fly MSP to AMS (Amsterdam) and then AMS to VCE Marco Polo airport arrive local time 5pm ish. Our apt. is close to Christine’s apt., I think that’s pretty cool. We hope to catch the water taxi and before the evening. Then we’ll go visit San Marco square. –ljf
Sunday April 15, 2007 Afternoon
Still on the plane. Our trip so far has been just okay. The seats that we are in are almost on the verge of uncomfortable, but at least we don’t have to sit next to anyone. The person ahead of me was kind enough not to recline his seat too far back. In fact, I don’t think he reclined his seat at all. Before we boarded the plane, the wait was awesome. We weren’t bored, and quite content, and then they started boarding the plane, so there was not that much of down time. Lisa and I did notice in the airport a vending machine that sold Ipods and stuff for ipods (fm transmitters and headphones. I could not believe it. I thought there were fewer places to eat in the airport, but I think there was at least 10-15 places. I guess we used different gates last time. Back to the plane ride. Before we took off, a persons seatback wouldn’t recline forward, so they had to get a mechanic in to fix it. So that took about 15-20 minutes for him to get his stuff squared away. It was in the back of the plane, so we didn’t see how bad it was. Once in the air (the pilot said he could still get us into Amsterdam on time, even though of the mechanical failure) they were quick to get the carts going. But before then, I had to try the laptop to see if it would work on the plane. It took me about 10 minutes to find the plug in, and then you basically have to plug your stuff in “blind” meaning all I could do was feel the outlet and try to jam the prongs into it
. Of course my scheme while flying was to get as much wine as I could, and then take it all to Italy with us. So on the drink course, I ordered a red wine and water, and Lisa ordered a bloody mary. Holy cow was her bloody mary good. Plus they gave her Skyy vodka, which I thought was nice. It was Mr. and Mrs. T’s bloody Mary mix. Lisa said it tasted meaty. She offered some to me, and of course, I wasn’t going to turn it down. So immediately following the drink course, the food course came. You had two choices, chix or curry vegetarian. Both Lisa and I go the chicken, even though I thought maybe one of us could have gotten the curry dish. The chicken was good (thigh pieces I believe) in like a teriyaki sauce with baby carrots, mushrooms and rice, but the mushrooms had to go. Also on the plate was of course, the customary hunk of cheddar cheese, club crackers, butter for the roll, ranch dressing for a nice lettuce salad and lemon cookies using the infamous green bottle lemon juice. All the stuff was good. Lisa got a white wine, and I got another red wine. I plan on using them for cooking. After throwing the trash, I asked lisa if she wanted some benedryl so we could sleep on the plane. Of course I did, and we slept kind of wildly. Then before you know it they served a crappy breakfast sandwich and good yogurt and tropical fruit cup. When we got off the plane in Amsterdam we had to go through a security checkpoint. They made us throw away our 4 bottles of wine that we had collected. We were so disappointed. But in the interest of national security- we folded. So we had plenty of time to catch our next flight to VCE or Marco Polo Venezia airport. We made it to the baggage carousel and our bags were among the first out. We were so excited. Thrilled and excited. We hoofed it to the Ali Laguna stop about 4 blocks from the airport. Then we took the LONG boat shuttle (12€) eventually – the long way round to the San Marco. I did get some nice pictures and we did get to see some different areas that we wouldn’t have gotten to see otherwise. As we exit the throng of people trying to get off the bus Luke takes the reigns and promptly takes us to the apartment. He didn’t even have to refer to a map. He knew the street directions like 2 or 3 turns ahead of us. He did a wonderful job. We made it with our backpack and luggage with no problem. We were tourists but so was everyone else. We checked into our apartment with minor hassle. We had to pay less security deposit than we had hoped that was good. We got the keys and as we were going to quick go out to explore before it got dark, I told to Luke to check the lock to be sure it worked. We shut the door and couldn’t get it open again. We tried and tried and thankfully a guy showed us the trick you had to pull the door shut a bit to help the lock catch.
We walked along the shore the Rivia Schiavoni by the San Zaccharia stop and saw all the hotels with outdoor dining. We saw lots of people with cute dogs not on leashes. They were so well behaved. No barks or poops/pees. We saw a Buzzy dog. He wasn’t as long or as fat as Buzz. We saw lots of people in love. I got a pic of a couple kissing. We then turned around to go to San Marco Square. It was big and lit nicely. The covered porticos were nice and pretty. Some fancy shops were tucked in behind like a little strip mall. Chanel and Louis Vitton. I didn’t give them a second look. There were vendors in the center selling t-shirts and prints. I bet a lot of people buy the prints. What else. The dueling orchestras were nice. I wouldn’t mind listening to them again. The streets (all over) were dirty and littered. Just yucky. Didn’t appreciate it. It could just use some spit and polish or maybe just elbow grease. We stopped for some food- a sandwich at a trattoria. A Pomodoro- - which was just cheese and salami. (Lisa is a putz, because a pomodoro is a tomato) Mine was a tour something like a tornado € 3.50, Had a thin sliced rustic foccacia had tomatoes, cheese and like tuna- it was pretty dang good. I enjoyed it. One of the best tuna sandwiches I’ve had in a while. We walked around a bit more. Luke got a calzone- a big one. For €4.50. He liked it until he found a big pocket of marinated mushrooms. Then we slid them off. We were walking on the way to our appt. and Luke saw Rick Steves sitting at a sidewalk table. We shook his hand and thanked him for his advice. How cool. Luke said we should rush back and get the guidebook and have him sign it. Luke said he appeared bigger in real life. He was gracious. We came back to the apt. I was going to put on (Luke now typing) a bathrobe, and right when Lisa grabbed it, the lights went out. I thought that the lights were on a timer, like a few of the lights in the building. So I tried to find the switches blindly in the apartment, and with luck, I found them. But after switching them on and off for a while, no dice. So I grabbed the only “flashlight” I could think of and it happened to be the cellphone. So I checked the breakers in our apartment and they were all good. So I decided to take a stroll down the steps of our apartment to see if I could find a main breaker. I was able to find the gas, the water, and finally the electrical. I ended up opening up a huge double door, and there were about five large breakers that weren’t tripped, and I started to doubt myself. Luckily, a person that lives in the apartments had a flashlight, and we were able to figure out which one it was. Not too bad for somebody like me. So after all the lights were turned back on, I finally was able to take a shower.
So tomorrow night with Christine. So we shall find a nice place to eat some great pasta and cheap wine. I wish I had the internet, because this search would be over.
Monday, April 16, 2007 1645
It is afternoon and we are tired, so I will quick enter this and then Luke can go publish this. This am we woke before the alarm went off. I had only 1 earplug in, it was VERY noisy. So glad we had those. We also heard (the night before) a very loud, heated Italian argument. They must have had a love fight. They were using “Basta!” a lot which means “that’s enough.” So we obviously needed the earplugs with the window open.
So we got ready this am and first went to the grocery store that’s located so close to our appt. We were not familiar with the stuff in the grocery store. It took us a bit to figure out what we needed /wanted. Christine called last night and asked if we could do something tonight. So Luke and I kinda thought we’d cook. It is cheaper that way. We got bread, butter, wine, pasta, gnocchi, pesto, tomato paste, yogurt, frozen veggies, onion, garlic, olive oil, pasta sauce, apples and the best of all, we got pecorina romano for like 3€. Awesome! After we left the store, we went back home, and put it all away. For some reason, both of us were cranky, and didn’t listen to either of each other. We finally decided on a course of action after Luke took a shower. Lisa made a small lunch of yogurt, juice, apples, and sandwiches made with butter and the parmesan cheese we got earlier. Boy those sandwiches hit the spot. I had mine with dried cherries. After a look at our itinerary, we decided to get to St. Marks square and get the Doge Palace, Correr Museum and St. Marks Basilica done for the day. We decided that doing St. Marks wasn’t the first thing we wanted to do because there was a line about a block long. We decided to do the Correr Museum instead, which should have smaller lines and we can get the ticket for Doge’s Palace with it. We also got a pass for Murano Glass. The museum card was 18€, for all three things. So we looked around Correr Museum was a little slow, and they have tons of security. No wonder it costs so much to get in, because there were at least 30-40 security guards (1 in each room). I guess they don’t want any pictures taken. But there were some nice things in there, and it was 4 stories. We got to see some early globes that were made by local cartographers. These globes were four feet in diameter. We also saw a lot of artwork, a lot dealing with Venice and its creation. They also had works of art for some famous Venetian painters, none of which I can remember. We also got to see some architecture things from Venice. After a walk through of about an hour and half, we left to go to Doge’s Palace. But before we left for there, we decided to take a break and look at the Rick Steves Book. In it, it said that we could drop off our bag at this small place next to St. Marks Basilica and then we could shuffle past the whole line and get in faster. This was the correct course of action for us. So I dropped off the bag, the man told me where to go, and Lisa and I were off. And in fact, like the gentleman said, we bypassed the line, showed the card, and got in really quick as some putz was asking why he had to check his bag. Fools. So first off we went up some stairs so we could look out over St. Marks Square. This cost us 3€, which was a great price considering what you got. In the “upper” part of the church you could see some close up mosaics. Mosaics are made with little pieces of tile “glued” to the wall, eventually making a picture. On an informational stand, it said that ladies would go up there because they weren’t allowed on the lower floor. So we went out into the open air and looked down on St. Marks. It sure is a great place to just look down on all the people and see everybody enjoying themselves. There was a lot of history dealing with these bronze horses. I guess they were stolen, brought back, retrieved from Napoleon to take back to Paris, and then back to Venice. But being outside was destroying them, so they brought them inside and made replicas for outside.



In between these horses the Doge would speak to Venice. After seeing all this we took the tour of St. Marks, and it was okay, but not anything great. Kind of like this church we saw in Prague. It was great and grand to see, but I don’t remember much of it. Just remembering we were in it, and saw it.
After St. Marks, we decided to eat our fabulous lunch. We sat near a column by Doge’s Palace, which was close to St. Mark’s Basilica. Lisa and I both enjoyed watching the pigeons strut around and look for food. There are dominant pigeons that fluff themselves up and peck at the pigeons that want in on their territory. It is quite entertaining. So we sat around for a bit before going off to see the Palace. The palace is a huge building with a courtyard in it and it housed the Doge (elected king of Venice). This place was a little more remembered, because there was more interesting things to behold. We saw the world’s largest oil painting. Rick Steves called it a “monsterpiece”. We also were able to see the Bridge of Sighs. Well, actually not see it, but walk through it. Most people just look at it from a bridge by the sea, but we paid the price for admission, so we checked it out. It is reported that when prisoners would be taken to the jail, they would cross the bridge, take one look back at Venice and sigh, wondering at its marvel.
After the Doge Palace we were wondering what we were going to do. So we decided on riding the Vaporetto to the Rialto Bridge and back. When I paid for the tickets (6€ for one hour ticket) I gave the guy a 20€ note, and he shot three coins back at me, and in the quickness, I thought it would be three 2€ coins. I pocketed the money and grabbed the tickets. After about an hour I realized that the guy in the ticket stall screwed me by taking my money, he only gave me 3 – 1€ coins. I wanted to go back and deck him. What a learning experience. I won’t get fooled again while in Italy. Well in all the books that we have read, there are two main lines that service the Grand Canal: the #1 and the #82. So I was sitting at the dock waiting for the 82 bus, and I sat around for about ten minutes before I finally realized the times for the 82 bus were early in the morning, and late at night, not during the afternoon. I was super pissed. So Lisa and I had to move to another vaporetto stop and wait for the 1 bus, which didn’t take too long. We were planning on doing the Rick Steves Grand Canal tour, but we were doing it backwards, and we only had an hour to get to the top of the canal, and then back down, which was going to be impossible. So we had to cut our first vaporetto trip short because of a few mistakes. It’s all part of the learning curve in my opinion. The learning curve continues, because Lisa and I should have just bought a 72 hour pass for each of us. Since I already threw away 17€, it wouldn’t be much of a big deal. We shall see if we need something like that. On our way back to our apartment, we saw a bunch of shops open that we hadn’t noticed the day before so we decided to take a quick stroll around. Lisa and I found a dessert shop and found a wonderfully enticing bit of chocolate and nuts and hardened “nougat”.


It looked awesome, but we coughed up 8€ for it. Lisa took a picture of it, so we can show people what it actually is. This guy that worked for Harvard (I looked into his wallet when he paid) was trying to buy milk chocolate for his 13 year old daughter. The Lindt Chocolate bars weren’t good enough for her, because she wanted these “loose” chocolate shapes, like you get in a Hershey’s Pot ‘o Gold, and didn’t want anything inside of it. Lisa told me she would have told that girl to get a job. I told Lisa the girl should have had a chocolate bar, because it would be more satisfying. We made it back to our apartment and had some of the chocolate (I was hoping for more soft) which was okay, despite the hardened nougat part. Well, Christine just called, and we are deciding on supper. I hope all the stuff that I “blindingly” bought lives up to what the picture shows. I didn’t have a translation thing, so I just went by the picture. Sounds like it will be pasta with some sort of sauce I will concoct and some frozen vegetables that looked good with lots of parmesan cheese and bread. I can’t wait, my mouth is watering. Until next time – ljf.





Now is 2100:
Ok, just got done with dinner. Luke made Orcecchiette with creamy cheesy tomato sauce. We had a frozen veg of “minestrone” vegetables. It had a few beans in it, zucchini, peas, celery, carrots, green beans and a bit of spinach. Luke grated some pecorino romano and we put that on everything. It was all good, then we had bread and wine. We had really good conversation. I was glad to have my cousin Christine (who is doing a semester abroad staying in Venice for 6 weeks) over. Christine bought an apricot kind of torte- that was quite tasty as well. We drank 2 bottles of wine between the 3 of us- well, mostly Luke and I. Over a period of time- we weren’t drunk or anything. It was quite a nice first meal in Venice. I guess we should have taken a picture of it all. We’ll get this posted. Talk to you all later.

Friday, April 13, 2007

No "Night Before" Jitters Here!!


-Luke and I must have iron stomachs! Luke decided to pull a goat chop out of the freezer and grill it! We got it at the farmer's market last summer and my husband decided to cook it now. I must say we were hesitant to try it. But when it came down to it it tasted just like....meat. Not wild not weird, just like meat- kinda tough in spots- but meat all the same. Beata at work asked me "How's it taste?" Then she said- "I hope it's not baaaaad!" Luke and I got a kick out of that!



-Well we are all packed- still. The house is ready. I had my interview today which I think went well. No problems that I can foresee except that maybe I was too casual in my speaking. I guess time will tell. Luke and I had so much time on our hands that we went to hit softballs and golf balls at the RAC and then went swimming. That was nice. Now home to watch The Sopranos and hit the sack. Tomorrow we travel. Bon Voyage!

Thursday, April 5, 2007

Wild Preparation Ensues!!!


The trip is coming up! Almost a week away. Our days off together from now to the trip number only 1 after today. We gathered up all our necessary junk AND packed it into the suitcases to make it for a month on our own. We also did some necessary paperwork, notified the apartment people of our arrival times etc. We finalized our cell phone deal- that should be delivered on Mon. (We hope.) I think all the loose ends are tied up. If the planning were left up to my husband we'd be doing all this the night before. Well everyone the next entry will be at the start of our trip- maybe waiting for the plane!